Lale Kıraathanesi in Istanbul’s Pangaltı Has Closed
Since 1959, this coffeehouse on Tavukçu Fethi Street had been operated since 1974 by Hayrettin Muştu from Cide, Kastamonu. Neighbors mentioned that Mr. Hayrettin was tired and had handed over the establishment. Prospective buyers had been eyeing the place for a long time anyway. Perhaps it will become a café, or maybe a new one will be added to the kebab shops that surround the street. There isn’t much information yet.
Lale Kıraathanesi was like a breeze from the old years. We will miss its always well-steeped, hot tea and its unique, humble tranquility...
Witnessing the transformation of the street and the neighborhood
Pangaltı Lale Kıraathanesi was located at number 11/A on Tavukçu Fethi Street, right across from Bilezikçi Street in Kurtuluş, entered from Ergenekon Avenue. There was no other "kıraathane" (traditional coffeehouse) around here not a café, but an old-school place where one could drink tea, coffee, or oralet, chat, and play backgammon, cards, or okey. Moreover, it was clean, well-maintained, and the tea was both cheap and always perfectly steeped. Its cat, Boncuk, was well-cared for and loved by everyone.
The coffeehouse, which had been here for 66 years, was operated for 51 years by Hayrettin Muştu from Cide, Kastamonu. Mr. Hayrettin is also a resident of Kurtuluş and lives on Bilezikçi Street. Its regulars consisted of neighboring shopkeepers and retired local residents. Lale Kıraathanesi was also a coffeehouse where women would set up tables and play games cheerfully. Mr. Hayrettin used to say that the number of female regulars had increased since the 2000s. There were also those like me who came to browse their newspaper or book...
Lale Kıraathanesi was a place that witnessed the change of the street and the neighborhood. In the old days, intercity buses used to depart from in front of it. In those years, the entire street was filled with Jewish and Armenian houses. Now, the whole street consists of businesses. Astek Ocakbaşı and its pide shop, Mahir Restaurant, and the Lahmacun bakery are also located on this street.
It was a meeting place
The coffeehouse had a large hall with a stove set up in the middle, a front outdoor area, and three tables under a tree on the sidewalk. I used to sit there, drinking my tea, and overhear the conversations of the neighboring shopkeepers about the district in the already narrow street. It was also an easy-to-describe meeting point.
A few months ago, I had written about Lale Kıraathanesi: “This is a neighborhood with surprises. In today's world, where everything is thought to be temporary, it feels good to encounter some permanent things. Even if it's just a humble kıraathane, I think this is very precious.”
Just as one must appreciate the value of good things in their presence, one must also honor them in their absence. Lale Kıraathanesi, which had long clocking over half a century, was exactly that for this neighborhood. And now, it too has closed. I thank Mr. Hayrettin for his past labors.
