BURNED, BELLS STOLEN, COMMUNITY DIMINISHED: THE 169-YEAR HERITAGE OF DOLAPDERE
The struggle for survival of the Evangelistra Greek Orthodox Church
The Yenişehir Evangelistra Greek Orthodox Church was built as a wooden structure in 1857 in the Dolapdere neighborhood of Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district. After burning down 20 years later, the church entered a 16-year construction period in 1877. Opened for worship in its current form in 1894, the church mesmerizes visitors with its architecture and scale. Built in the Neo-Gothic style, the church is accompanied by the Theotokos Ayazma (Holy Spring). The church building was registered as a second-degree urban conservation site on May 12, 1979. In later years, a clock tower was also added to the structure.
The bells in the two pointed-roof towers atop the church were stolen in 2003. While it remains unknown how or by whom they were taken, two new bells were later placed in the towers through donations from a local Greek resident and the church management.
We tour the 169-year-old Beyoğlu Yenişehir Evangelistra Greek Orthodox Church with Foundation President Aleksandros Meydan. The church, where every corner and architectural detail feels meticulously crafted, stands solitary in Tatavla in all its splendor. Due to the steady decline of the Greek population in Dolapdere over the years, the number of worshippers has dwindled to a mere handful. We spoke with Aleksandros Meydan, who grew up in the church courtyard, about the history and the present state of the church.
Could you provide information about the history of the church?
Unfortunately, there isn’t much information regarding the church's past. We are conducting a study on the church with Istos Publishing. According to the information we have, the church was built as a wooden structure in 1857. Later, the wooden church burned down. Twenty years later, in 1877, construction of its current form began. The construction took 16 years because it was entirely funded by the local residents, the Greeks of Dolapdere. We believe the long duration was due to this. Completed in 1893 by the architect Petrakis Mimaridis of Tatavla, the church was inaugurated on November 27, 1894, by Ecumenical Patriarch Neophytos VII.
Until the present day, there has been a significant decline in the Greek population of Dolapdere. The church foundation’s financial means were also not ideal. Due to neglect and lack of funds, both the exterior and interior of the church deteriorated significantly. In 2021, as the foundation, we made a request to Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew through our metropolitan. Through the Patriarch’s mediation, the Greek shipowner Thanasis Martinos sponsored the restoration. He covered all expenses and carried out a complete restoration. The restoration work was performed by architect Vasilis Poridis. It lasted two and a half years, and the opening took place toward the end of 2024. Participation was very high, and the church achieved the state it is in now.
The church is also known to have facilitated many miracles. For instance, my twin brother fell ill when we were born. No matter how many times my mother took him to the hospital, the medicine didn't help; he vomited everything he ate. Finally, my mother brought my brother to this church, and the priest gave her a flower brought from Mount Athos(Aynaroz), a holy place for us in Greece. My mother boiled the flower in the hospital as the priest instructed and gave it to my brother to drink. After that, my brother recovered. The doctor told my mother, "Whatever you're doing, keep doing it."
I heard that the church bells were stolen...
The church bells were stolen in 2003. It is unknown how they were taken. Whether they entered from inside or brought a crane is a big question mark. The stolen bells have still not been found. Those very valuable and historical Russian bells had a special sound; they could be heard throughout the neighborhood. They had been there since the church was founded. Since it was known they were very valuable, I believe the theft was organized. Both bells were not stolen on the same day. The second bell was taken two days after the first. It is clearly organized. Most likely, the bells were taken abroad the day they were stolen. Again, one bell was donated by Stratos Tarinas of Dolapdere, and the other was reinstalled by the church management.
According to a legend, a painting depicting the body of Jesus Christ being held for three days after the crucifixion, which was hanging in the church, was stolen during the Events of September 6-7 (Istanbul Pogrom), 1955. The person who stole the painting returned to the church a year and a half later and said with hatred, "During the time I had this painting, I lost my entire family; I am left alone. This is cursed." It is said that he returned the painting to the church.
How many people use the church?
In terms of location, the church is situated in the lower part of Tatavla. Since the majority of Greeks live in Kurtuluş, the Tatavla slope does not appeal to those who want to come to the church. For this reason, community participation is low. Services are held regularly every Sunday and on major feast days. Services are also organized on and the eve of March 25, which is the church’s name day, "Evangelismos tis Teotoku" (Annunciation of the Theotokos). Every Sunday after the service, we spend time in our hall with the church priest and our metropolitan, who visits once a month. We also organize activities for children.
How many Greek Orthodox churches are there in the region?
There are four churches in total across Tatavla, Feriköy, and Kurtuluş. The Greek population in Tatavla is approximately 300 people. There is also a Greek school across from the church. However, the school closed in the 1980s due to a lack of students. Dolapdere is one of the places where the Greek population has declined most rapidly. Unfortunately, the Greek population in Dolapdere is now almost non-existent. My family is the fifth generation belonging to this church’s congregation. We are among the oldest families affiliated with the Dolapdere church. I was born and raised in Dolapdere; I grew up in this church’s courtyard. I have been on the foundation's board of directors since 2012. I took over the presidency following the foundation elections held in December 2022. This place holds a very different meaning for me. I see it as my home. It is a culture that must continue. That is why I took on this role, and I am trying my best to keep this culture alive.
Do you experience difficult times?
Due to the flea market around the church, we experience very disturbing events during our Sunday services. There are people consuming alcohol in front of the church during the liturgy. We have applied to the municipality regarding this issue many times, but we received no response; they did not attend to us. Most recently, we got in touch along with our church lawyer. They said, "We are looking for a place." The flea market has been here for 20 years. If you haven't found a place in 20 years, I inevitably think this isn't about not being able to find a spot. Furthermore, there are trash bins against the newly restored church wall. I have written to the municipality many times about this as well. We requested that the locations of the trash bins be changed and explained how the newly restored wall has been affected by them and how the wall has been damaged. However, we haven't received a response to that either.

